Myers Depot Metal Detectors

Best detector for about $200?

Buy the Fisher 2-coil package and don't look back. Does Eurotek even offer a 2coil deal anywhere close to the F2 in price? You don't want to be stuck with the only stock Eurotek coil. It does gather in EMI.
 
Donneybrook said:
well my bounty hunter doesnt have a good dicrimination at all and in garbage infested sites that have serious potential i dig up trash :/
Click to expand...

I'm curious as to which Bounty Hunter you have. I have a Lone Start and just notch out everything except clad and zinc (I leave zinc in to increase the chances of silver) and very rarely hit on junk, including iron.
 
Silver Dragon said:
I'm curious as to which Bounty Hunter you have. I have a Lone Start and just notch out everything except clad and zinc (I leave zinc in to increase the chances of silver) and very rarely hit on junk, including iron.
Click to expand...

I have no idea what kind it is, can anyone ID this BH? It has a iron discrim but sadly doesnt work well at all, it beeps for all iron. Lol. Placing the dial at about 11:00 is supposed to discrim iron.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    63.3 KB · Views: 348
A Eurotek and F2 will be HUGEEEE upgrades from that Bounty Hunter, I owned a similar one when I started detecting that I bought from Radio Shack and while they do find some items, it's mostly shallow targets, and the discrimination is non existent, the displays are only intensity meters but considering most targets it found were only an inch or two deep, an intensity meter didn't do much. Your finds will probably quadruple with a nice upgrade like the Eurotek or F2, mine did when I upgraded to a Classic ID in 95'. :grin:
 
Isaac43 said:
Looks a small step up from a bounty hunter junior… I owned one and found a few coins. Hope you decide on a nice machine! :)
Click to expand...

Yeah, its a pretty lowly machine lol. I've found bullets, 3 wheats, one silver, old buttons and so much more with it. It'll be hard to go to a new machine. I'll feel like im cheating on her after 5 years! lol
 
I have an F2 and and Ace 250. You will like either one. I tend to lean towards the Ace 250 over the F2 but I am in the minority around here.
 
Should I exchange my Bounty Hunter 3300 for a F2?

I just joined the forum, and have a brand new Bounty Hunter 3300, never used. After reading the entries in this thread, I am wondering whether I made the right choice in buying the Bounty Hunter. Should I exchange it for the F2? It seems that the members like it very much for a MD in the $200 price range. I am a newbie, and have never been metal detecting myself before, only with someone else running the equipment. Would the F2 be easier to operate? I would appreciate any input.
 
searcher said:
I just joined the forum, and have a brand new Bounty Hunter 3300, never used. After reading the entries in this thread, I am wondering whether I made the right choice in buying the Bounty Hunter. Should I exchange it for the F2? It seems that the members like it very much for a MD in the $200 price range. I am a newbie, and have never been metal detecting myself before, only with someone else running the equipment. Would the F2 be easier to operate? I would appreciate any input.
Click to expand...


If you are a noob than stick to your detector... Learn it... Learn its sounds and how it works. The f2 might be better than your bounty hunter, but there is always a better detector out there, and we forget, most of the time, that the best detector of them all is the one in the middle of your headphones...
 
searcher said:
I just joined the forum, and have a brand new Bounty Hunter 3300, never used. After reading the entries in this thread, I am wondering whether I made the right choice in buying the Bounty Hunter. Should I exchange it for the F2? It seems that the members like it very much for a MD in the $200 price range. I am a newbie, and have never been metal detecting myself before, only with someone else running the equipment. Would the F2 be easier to operate? I would appreciate any input.
Click to expand...

Honestly, the 3300 and the F2 are kissing cousins made under the umbrella of the same parent company.
They are similar in some ways and the way they perform, from what I have seen and read the BH is just not as fast in the way it works, rapid recovery we call that.
Don't let that deter you in the least, swinging slow with most detectors will usually find you more than fast swinging so just let this one train you to learn this good habit till it is natural.
If you do, you can go on to find some great things so don't worry at all.

Don't switch to the F2 from that one, from my point of view not a real logical move at this point.
Find a ton, save your money and when you are ready use it to move up to a higher level detector with more features than either of these if you think you would eventually enjoy a unit like that.
 
Yea, what digger27 said. The 3300 is actually like a slower f4 so you should have no problems killing it in clad and possibly some gold if you dig those lower to mid range signals. Save up the clad and buy an f70 or f75.
 
SavingThePast said:
If I were gonna spend $200 I think I would go with a eurotek pro. The iron audio feature alone would make me pick it over an ace or f2(which I own). sent you a pm......
Click to expand...

I agree. Ive never used one but from all the comments ive seen on them they appear to offer more than the f2 or ace 250 does. For the price it seems to have quite a lot going for it
 
i'm sorry, but could you guys explain again what iron audio is? Is the tone different in addition to the screen showing your target type?
 
Iron audio on the EuroTek Pro is when you go over iron you will get a different sound than you will with coins, etc. You can set the volume at a number of different settings which will make iron sound off with a soft low sound to a loud sound and anywhere in between & can mute the iron sound as well, this feature works very well on the EuroTek Pro.
 
The Garrett AT Pro had iron audio which I really enjoyed and I think the Eurotek has something similar.

It basically lets you lower or eliminate iron tones without actually discriminating out iron. So your machine still detects and IDs iron, but mutes the sound allowing your ears to hear non-iron tones without the constant low tone drumming of iron. You lose depth when you use discrimination so this in a way allows you to ignore iron without using discrimination.
 
Jressman said:
The Garrett AT Pro had iron audio which I really enjoyed and I think the Eurotek has something similar.

It basically lets you lower or eliminate iron tones without actually discriminating out iron. So your machine still detects and IDs iron, but mutes the sound allowing your ears to hear non-iron tones without the constant low tone drumming of iron. You lose depth when you use discrimination so this in a way allows you to ignore iron without using discrimination.
Click to expand...

how much depth is lost? An inch or so?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

O
Looking for iron
Replies
2
Views
188
jmaclen
J
maxxkatt
MyTrashyPark program for the XP2
Replies
5
Views
200
Big Boys Hobbies
Big Boys Hobbies
V
Trying out the legend
Replies
15
Views
588
markinmichigan
markinmichigan
W
Nox 600
Replies
13
Views
251
Big Boys Hobbies
Big Boys Hobbies
maxxkatt
Update your Profile and Signature
Replies
0
Views
85
maxxkatt
maxxkatt
Back
Top Bottom