Books or metal detecting forums for newbies

maxxkatt

Forum Supporter
Joined
Sep 20, 2015
Messages
3,600
Location
North Atlanta, GA
What have I found more useful in learning a new detector or even being brand new to the metal detecting hobby? Two good authors who write books specifically about different makes and models of metal detectors. Clive Clynick and Andy Sabisch come to mind who write some good metal detecting books.

While these books and detector manuals are helpful the best information for me come from a few select forum members who really know their detectors and metal detecting theory. Even more important are the ones who can explain it in terms most newbies can understand. These men and women were always willing to answer my question in detail.

Over the past years I have found a handful such trusted forum members on this and other metal detecting forums. So I suggest over time you find your own trusted forum members and use them as mentors.

A big mistake to avoid is don't try to use all the advanced features of a SMF detector in the beginning. Stick to the stock programs until you at least have 50 or more hours on that detector. There is this tendency to think, "wow, I can adjust this feature and that feature and the detector will do all the work for me." Trust me, I have been down that road and it is a dead end. Hopefully you will eventually really understand what these many adjustments are for and maybe even learn to use the properly. Most SMF metal detectors are multiple types of detectors rolled into one machine. This is good thing, but the almost infinite combinations of settings if set some wrong will have you using a detector that is not really tuned very well and won't perform for you like it should. I spent quite a while with my new 800 using other people's settings with out really understanding why I was using those settings. To be really good with your detector you must REALLY understand each setting and why you would be using those settings for different types of hunt sites.

Also keep in mind with modern SMF detectors you will always be learning new things due to this little thing called updates. Updates are where the metal detecting firm's engineers try to fix or improve the detector through software fixes. Updates can and often do, literally change your detector for the good and sometimes bad. Bad means they may fix one thing and break two other things that were really good. I spent most of my career as a software engineer in the aircraft industry have lots of experience in fixing one thing and breaking two or more things. Why? Software can be so complex that you cannot possibly test the full effects of even a minor software change. So it is common practice to test it out on live customers because that is the quickest way to find if you broke anything. Few firms will admit this practice of testing their software on live customers, but it does exist and it is very effective for the firm but frustrating for the customers.

Lastly are a few select forum members who make really good hunting videos on Youtube. What I mean by really good hunting videos, are videos where you can see the target ID number and clearly hear the tones while the target is still in the ground. I personally don't follow detector compare videos on test gardens or air test because they usually don't really provide any real world examples.

As a newbie you can just use the stock programs and have fun hunting and find lots of good stuff. The other route is trying to learn the most about your detector and getting the best out of your detector and yourself. The former is the easiest and least frustrating route to take. But for those of you who want the best from your detector and yourself, then learn, learn, learn and hunt, hunt, hunt.

 
Good thread Max. When I got my E-Trac it was confusing trying to learn and understand all that the machine was capable of doing. That changed for me when I got the book Understanding the E-Trac by Andy Sabisch. It explained each setting item in detail and how and when to use them. Another thing, I'm a big advocate of is putting in your own target garden. That really helped me to try, and to understand what tweaking these settings did for me. It might just be me, but trying to use and understand all the things a SMF machine can do o the fly would be too questionable.
 
Good thread Max. When I got my E-Trac it was confusing trying to learn and understand all that the machine was capable of doing. That changed for me when I got the book Understanding the E-Trac by Andy Sabisch. It explained each setting item in detail and how and when to use them. Another thing, I'm a big advocate of is putting in your own target garden. That really helped me to try, and to understand what tweaking these settings did for me. It might just be me, but trying to use and understand all the things a SMF machine can do o the fly would be too questionable.
Thanks, I too put in a test garden years ago. But now I prefer to learn in the places I hunt. CW relics in very trashy parks in North Atlanta. It is still quite a challenge even for my now detector XP2. I minimize the trash problem that by notching out foil and pull tabs and pop tops. When relic hunting I am not too concerned in losing nickels even buffalos. This notching means I can cover more ground during my hunts for CW relics and of course silver coins.
 
I too put in a test garden years ago. But now I prefer to learn in the places I hunt.
Oh yes I do too. But if I come across a new pattern, I'll give it a test run in the garden and if it SEEMS to work well, I'll take it in the field and that's when I'll tweak it for the location.
 
Everyone will have their own opinions.
Guess I will share mine here.
Can doing on top of the ground tests help a user learn their detector. Using junk targets and good targets like coins, etc and nails and iron? Big time yes. I will say though what a person sees with the junk targets and good targets- varying notch, disc, freq, etc will be more close to the real deal what one is liable s to witness in the wild. Using the iron not as close.

Little story here.
When I got my Deus 2 from France. I paid for unit.
I fired it up got use to the menu system first off.
Then I started testing.
One of the first things I witnessed was Deus 2 can indeed give iron range signal ID yet give a higher tone when sweeping some iron/nail and nonferrous target combinations.
The Deus 1 can do this too btw. I already had run that model for years and dug a lot of nonferrous targets yielding ferrous ID.
So second day of ownership of Deus 2 intake it to this old site I had spent a lot of time in previously. Loads of time. Second target I dug actually yielded iron range ID yet gave this funky sounding higher pitched tone. Turned out to be nonferrous target. Yippee. My testing help me big time. The manual says zero about this being a possibility.
A few days later a gent posted a YouTube with a live dig. He even mentioned me my YouTube name. Because he said the target yielding iron range ID yet gave this funky higher tone for audio..he said the only reason he was digging that is because he had seen my video. Turned out to be a deeper nice relic nonferrous.

Now could a user of Deus 2 using in the wild figure this out? I think so. The only problem though is a user might have to dig a lot of these signals with ID I described above. A person could dig 50 and find only iron in the bottom of hole. Hence a person may write off oh- don’t dig those because they are always ferrous junkers- so one’s learning could be here more luck of the draw per detecting scenario.

Some detectors there is not much one can do with settings wise to maybe make it do some thing helpful to give users clues to make more successful dig decisions or not pass up what could be when looked at superficially a bs target- when in fact it may not be.

So.
Can a person watch some videos done by certain folks and get a leg up using a detector model? I think so.
I don’t charge for info. Unlike some.
I share info. Lot of info.
It’s the person’s choice to read or watch.
Whatever floats their boat.

Working full time it could take a person s long time to find out a lot of the ins and outs with a detector model use.

So that’s my take.

I know for a fact my testing has helped me big time. I apply a lot of it in the wild.

Btw what I have said above.
Is based on my testing and use in the wild of the following models since Dec 2010.
White’s V3i
Minelab Etrac
Minelab CTX
Minelab Manticore
Minelab Equinox 800
Xp Deus 1
Xp Deus 2
Nokta Legend
Nokta Impact
Nokta Fors Core
Makro Racers 1 and 2
Blisstool V6
Whites MX sport
Fisher F75 both DST and non DST
Fisher F5
Nokta Relic
Aka Signum
AKa Sorex Pro
Deep tech Warrior
Rutus Alter 71

Been retired since 2003. Plenty of time to spend with detectors.
 
Last edited:
Can doing on top of the ground tests help a user learn their detector. Using junk targets and good targets like coins, etc and nails and iron?
I guess I should have said that the targets in my test garden are, and have been buried at 7.5-8" so this is not on top of the ground, but at the target depths I'm trying to reach. And yes, I have a few that I have masked with a nail or beavertail just for fun. Seems to work real well for me. :waytogo: Oh, and this garden is over eight years old so the targets are not what you would call a fresh drop.
 
I guess I should have said that the targets in my test garden are, and have been buried at 7.5-8" so this is not on top of the ground, but at the target depths I'm trying to reach. And yes, I have a few that I have masked with a nail or beavertail just for fun. Seems to work real well for me. :waytogo: Oh, and this garden is over eight years old so the targets are not what you would call a fresh drop.
Gotya.
 
The reason I don't use my back yard test garden of good and bad targets buried 6" - 8" deep is two fold. First I have two ideal real test gardens within 1.5 miles from my home. The first 100 acre open space park that was once a farm where I have found items you would expect around old home sites (4 of them) and some civil war relics. Very little trash other than iron since the park is only about 3 years old and most of the people are hikers/runners who typically are very eco conscious and don't liter, and even pick up litter.

The other one is a very highly used (forever from 1900 extremely trashy park along the banks of the Chattahoochee river. So it is very convenient for me to just go to these to parks to do 90% of my testing. I am also thinking my park test site items have the original halos around the items and real world co-located junk. I am not really sure how long a backyard test garden takes to develop a halo. My backyard test garden is 7 years old and I don't think any halos have developed. But I really don't know how you would determine if a halo is present or not. In the wild, when you get a faint target ID and after you break the soil with your shovel and the signal disappears this can be a sign of a halo being disturbed or the target say if it is a coin maybe being moved on it's edge or even a co-located metallic trashy target being moved closer to your faint target.
 
Back
Top Bottom