New CTX3030 user and downloaded search programs

[eculuke]

I am just getting started with the 3030. Almost done reading Andys book. So far on my 2x s out I ran coin/open. I am considering Harold henkels training program. I have also heard of a few others (tadpole/ghost..ect) . Anybody experiment with these while learning or should I stick to stock or Harold's program. Please share experiences,!!
Thanks
Luke


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[coin chaser]

I am just getting started with the 3030. Almost done reading Andys book. So far on my 2x s out I ran coin/open. I am considering Harold henkels training program. I have also heard of a few others (tadpole/ghost..ect) . Anybody experiment with these while learning or should I stick to stock or Harold's program. Please share experiences,!!
Thanks
Luke


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Every person has their preference on programs. My only advise to you is pick a set up and leave it be for awhile. Changing stuff changes the way your MD acts and sounds. IMHO your better off getting to know it a bit before you get two program happy. When I first got mine I went program nuts. Now I run a personally modified version of the original gonehunting program and a ground coin program I got from mikeguard here on the forum. I have all sorts of programs including tadpole1,2,&3. I just never learn the little differences between each program. Don't overwhelm your self at first just take it easy and enjoy.

 

[tnsharpshooter]

Well even after I got a handle on my CTX, I liked to keep things simple.

Like for example. Open the screen all up meaning keep all conductive open and open up ferrous areas 01- 27
Then make a tone bin with everything reading higher conductive wise of more than 30 to have the highest tone.

A person will get most high conductor coins this way, even 2nd generation IHs.

And targets reading 30 or less just give them a lower tone.

Now a person can open up a nickel window of sorts and assign a high tone. But beware of the way war nickels like to register on detector's screen-- Generally a little higher-- awfully close to where some of the tabs can report.

 

[eculuke]

Ah yeah gone hunting was the other...Harold Henkel has a good 6 step program that starts with a lot of discrimination and eventually whittles it down


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[tnsharpshooter]

Ah yeah gone hunting was the other...Harold Henkel has a good 6 step program that starts with a lot of discrimination and eventually whittles it down


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Don't worry so much about discrimination setup.
Just get your tone bins set up correctly.
And open ferrous down to line 25 for now and rock and roll.

 

[choppadude]

Don't worry so much about discrimination setup.
Just get your tone bins set up correctly.
And open ferrous down to line 25 for now and rock and roll.

I would have to agree. I looked at the 6 tier set up the OP was speaking of and although it is good for a unexperienced user but I think it kinda strangles an experienced detectorist starting out with the CTX.
I used open screen and dug everything at first. You want to hear what that junk sounds like just as much as you want to hear what those deep silver targets sound like.
My last time out I had a pulltab signal and even remember going over that same target a couple hunts ago and passing it up. Well I dug it just for the heck of it and found a Buffalo nickel and Jefferson nickel stuck together at 4 ".

 

[tnsharpshooter]

Choppa,
I'm sure when the perma frost season ends-- you'll be a lighting the ground up with your new detector.

 

[Jason in Enid]

I am just getting started with the 3030. Almost done reading Andys book. So far on my 2x s out I ran coin/open. I am considering Harold henkels training program. I have also heard of a few others (tadpole/ghost..ect) . Anybody experiment with these while learning or should I stick to stock or Harold's program. Please share experiences,!!
Thanks
Luke


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

You've already gotten some good advice above.

The biggest thing about the CTX is it's mostly preference. Personally, I think it's silly to keep changing the pattern like that. I agree that a restricted pattern is best for just starting out, along with staying away from heavy trash sites. I recommend putting it in a stock program for the type of hunting you do, then go dig a bunch of clad in tot-lots and parks. Don't worry about super deep, old coins just yet. Get a handle on the tones, the pinpointing, the target trace and how different targets respond.

When you feel confident with it, THEN open it up to a GoneHunting pattern or however you wish. Open screens mean more junk, especially when you haven't learned exactly how junk responds.

 

[flyguy784]

Another good little book I bought a bit ago, "The CTX 3030 Survival Guide". By, C.& R. AURUM. It's a great little addition and I find myself thumbing thru it still. Jason is correct, pick a mode and stick with it. Get used to what the machine is saying.
I started with the stock coin program. I then downloaded Gone Huntings combined mode, I use that (slightly modified) almost exclusively now. I recently got Andy's book and intend to try a couple of those modes. If you join the CTX users group on this forum, in community, Mike Guard has put up a list of "typical" numbers for various objects. It's helpful when setting up a disc pattern.
Bottom line, sounds are your friend. You'll learn to hear the difference between wrap around and halo's, for the most part anyway. I still dig the occasional bent nail or the like, so what. Aluminum still occasionally gets my juices going however. But for the most part, you'll get familiar with the difference between a true hit and a can/lid etc. Wait till ya hit an aluminum horse shoe, you'll swear you're in the money.
You will love this machine once you get in the zone with it.