zeemang
Forum Supporter
The more metal you put in it and under it will just make it more detectable. Best place to hide stuff, in plain sight. Lots of secret doors built in to furniture, false bottoms in cabinets, fake appliances, etc.
The more metal you put in it and under it will just make it more detectable. Best place to hide stuff, in plain sight. Lots of secret doors built in to furniture, false bottoms in cabinets, fake appliances, etc.
*****************************************************no detectorist is likely going to think to detect under your shed floor
what about a Faraday box or something similar ... I like the idea I could lay down Faraday fabric over the hidden object and it will just disappear to MD's.
that is if it works that way:
https://www.amazon.com/Shielding-Bl...words=rf+shielded+boxes&qid=1573919417&sr=8-3
*****************************************************
Well, they might now!
Roger
However, The Faraday box itself, which is built out of electrically conductive material, is easily detectable.
OK ... then what is a shielded wire shielded with?
wrap the treasure in that!
What we do around here is, we paint our gold bullion bricks black, use them for doorstops.
Who’d ever know?
First off buy a reasonable size safe. One large enough that it takes two people to move it with difficulty. Do not bolt the safe to the floor or any thing. Put some heavy objects in the safe. Lock it up and forget the combination if you like. When the thieves come in they will forget your valuables and go to the trouble of stealing the heavy safe while your valuables are hid in old dirty coat pockets in the attic. Don't tell any one what you have done. Most house burgles are done by someone you know. If they leave the safe and steal your stuff you know it's an inside job.
I'm kinda confused here. Is this for a bugout plan that you need to get to it quickly and quietly and not be seen. Or is this just in case of robbery reasons. In either case think about what plagues detectorists the most, EMF! If I'm going
to bury a stash where most if not all detectorists would be unable to locate it, I would find a high voltage transmission power line. The ones with metal towers. Take your detector there, turn it on and see how much distortion you get. If it would be difficult for you to detect, so it would be for others. Bury your stash next to one of the tower leg footings. Most of these towers have ID tags, so all you have to do is remember the place or tag number. Now this would be more for a bugout situation where your house is in danger of being over run. Just my two zincon cents. Interesting thread.
Hi,
I am researching how to bury valuables underground in a way that makes it very difficult or impossible to use metal detection or ground-penetrating radar to discover the burial locations.
Suppose I am building a structure on a concrete slab of perhaps 100ft x 50feet in size, with a slab thickness of 6". At one or more locations beneath the slab I'd like to bury, for instance, a 2" diameter x 6" long PVC pipe containing silver coins, say, 30" below grade. (So, 8" of concrete, then 22" of soil cover.)
6" of concrete with 1/2" rebar on a 12" x 12" grid itself might present some challenges for some kinds of detectors, but I want to substantially "upgrade" the concrete's resistance to metal detectors if possible.
Aside from normal rebar, could I add say, 2-4% by weight of a finely-ground conductive metal powder like iron or aluminum to the concrete mix? (Assume for sake of discussion that this would not adversely affect the pouring or strength / durability characteristics of the concrete -- I would research those impacts elsewhere.) Would that be enough metal content to confuse metal detectors?
Maybe 2-4% metal content in the mix isn't anywhere near enough. What about dumping say 1/2" thick layer of solid aluminum shot on the ground before the concrete is poured? (Say 5-7mm diameter shot size --effectively making highly-conductive but rough-surfaced metallic mat beneath the concrete.) (Again, ignore any issues around aluminum-concrete chemical or mechanical incompatibility, I will research those elsewhere.)
Please also suggest if there are other methods that might be cost-effective and not too hard to implement.