Turn your Nox 800 into an even better coin machine

maxxkatt

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Get out of multi and get into 4khz in park 1 or park 2.

In multi frequency pull tabs, pop tops and screw caps will ring up as what they are even when sitting on top of a coin, say a dime for instance.

You will not see the dime, but rather the pull tabs, pop tops and screw caps on your TID and hear them audio wise also.

But the minute you switch and hunt in 4khz you will hear and see the coin even if it is right under the pull tabs, pop tops and screw caps. This is due to the frequency of 4khz and the conductivity of coins vs aluminum.

Along with the above I discrim out all up to 24 and leave in 12 & 13 for nickels. This gets rid of a lot of other stuff (including some rings).

in all signals I turn on the horseshoe button to look for bottle caps. If a bottle cap is under the coil you will get a small iron grunt.

I have found that the above makes my trashy urban parks a lot easier and more enjoyable to hunt and digging way less junk targets.

My recovery speed is usually 5-6-7 depending on how rapid my threshold nulls are sounding.

Sensitivity is as high as the ground will allow. In Atlanta, I pretty much always hunt with 0 ground balance.
 
I tried to say that about the multi-frequency detectors and got hammered.

I posted a video long ago comparing multi-frequency to single, only I used high frequency for gold. If I ran in multi I could not pick up the gold chain. I put it in 15kHz and boom it smacked on the chain.

I think multi-frequency of good for basic all-around coverage, but if you really want to get the extra depth & sensitivity, go with the right single frequency.
 
Get out of multi and get into 4khz in park 1 or park 2.

In multi frequency pull tabs, pop tops and screw caps will ring up as what they are even when sitting on top of a coin, say a dime for instance.

You will not see the dime, but rather the pull tabs, pop tops and screw caps on your TID and hear them audio wise also.

But the minute you switch and hunt in 4khz you will hear and see the coin even if it is right under the pull tabs, pop tops and screw caps. This is due to the frequency of 4khz and the conductivity of coins vs aluminum.

Along with the above I discrim out all up to 24 and leave in 12 & 13 for nickels. This gets rid of a lot of other stuff (including some rings).

in all signals I turn on the horseshoe button to look for bottle caps. If a bottle cap is under the coil you will get a small iron grunt.

I have found that the above makes my trashy urban parks a lot easier and more enjoyable to hunt and digging way less junk targets.

My recovery speed is usually 5-6-7 depending on how rapid my threshold nulls are sounding.

Sensitivity is as high as the ground will allow. In Atlanta, I pretty much always hunt with 0 ground balance.

I will have to save some pull tabs and square tabs and test this. Tell me, will the reading on the dime sitting under the pulltab, also work if the dime is under a rusty nail?

I need to hoard a little trash for these tests. Dang, the dime does actually read right with 4kHz, with the dime literally under the square tab. Good read, thanks. I also tested the rusty nail scenario with 4k. That is a washout, the nail overrules in 4kHz.
 
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I tried to say that about the multi-frequency detectors and got hammered.

I posted a video long ago comparing multi-frequency to single, only I used high frequency for gold. If I ran in multi I could not pick up the gold chain. I put it in 15kHz and boom it smacked on the chain.

I think multi-frequency of good for basic all-around coverage, but if you really want to get the extra depth & sensitivity, go with the right single frequency.

I remember the video Detector,and I agree. Right tool for the job makes all the difference
 
Does the 600 allow you to use different single frequencies too? I had a V540 multi and i do not think it was able to use single frequencies.
 
Does the 600 allow you to use different single frequencies too? I had a V540 multi and i do not think it was able to use single frequencies.

Equinox 600 has 4, 5, 10 and 15 kHz for selectable single frequencies. In Multi, the frequencies are the same as on the 800 in Park, Field and Beach.

The Vanquish does not offer a single frequency option. Also, big debate about what frequencies are being used in Multi on the Vanquish versus the Equinox.
 
I tried to say that about the multi-frequency detectors and got hammered.

I posted a video long ago comparing multi-frequency to single, only I used high frequency for gold. If I ran in multi I could not pick up the gold chain. I put it in 15kHz and boom it smacked on the chain.

I think multi-frequency of good for basic all-around coverage, but if you really want to get the extra depth & sensitivity, go with the right single frequency.

I remember your video too.

If we all had the same kind of dirt with roughly the same ground phase, using single frequencies versus multi would offer many viable options like the original poster’s suggestion.

Where I detect, Multi is the only viable option for depth, target ID accuracy and ground balancing in high iron mineralization. When I detect a US nickel in Multi the target ID is 12/13 no matter how deep it is. If the 11” coil will hit it, the Nox will give me very accurate IDs on that nickel even at 12 to 14”. If I switch to 4, 5 or 10 kHz two things happen………numerical target IDs and tones go into the silver range= that 12/13 nickel becomes 24 to 40 depending on how deep it is (3” to 8”) and overall achievable depth goes out the window. Using 20 or 40 kHz is a little better for target ID accuracy on that same nickel if it is 5” deep or less.

So when I put a pull tab at 3” and a silver dime at 5” (in my test garden I have a 6” deep 2” diameter removable PVC pipe filled with styrofoam that is slotted every inch for target insertion) they both sound the same (high tone) and have roughly the same target ID (24 to 30) when I switch to 4kHz. In Multi I get two distinct separate target IDs jumping between 13/14 and 24/26 with the corresponding mid and high tones at the same time.
 
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