Electrolysis question

[Silverspade]

I got an electrolysis set up I bought online and it came with stainless steel sacrificial rod and hooks, everything I read says that it is toxic and you shouldn't use it. When I change to a iron sacrificial rod my amps drop in half is that normal? The unit I have said to use baking soda which is what I am using

 

[Jim in Idaho]

Yeah, with stainless you end up with a nasty waste product. I wouldn't worry too much about the amps, especially with smallish objects. Washing soda is a little better than baking soda, but both work. I think washing soda is sodium hydroxide...can be bought at most grocery stores. The current is determined by both the metals involved and the solution. The more mineral you can get the solution to absorb, the more current you're going to get. When you've mixed all the powder in you can, and there's leftovers at the bottom, just pour it through a coffee filter to clean it up.
Jim

 

[Silverspade]

Yeah, with stainless you end up with a nasty waste product. I wouldn't worry too much about the amps, especially with smallish objects. Washing soda is a little better than baking soda, but both work. I think washing soda is sodium hydroxide...can be bought at most grocery stores. The current is determined by both the metals involved and the solution. The more mineral you can get the solution to absorb, the more current you're going to get. When you've mixed all the powder in you can, and there's leftovers at the bottom, just pour it through a coffee filter to clean it up.
Jim

Ok, I was under the impression that higher the amps the more cooking it was doing taking the rust off with the stainless steel I can get up to five amps 24 volts with the iron rod I get about two amps, I really dont want the nasty waste so I guess I will switch. I am currently cooking a large old hoe head

 

[Pete e]

I got an electrolysis set up I bought online and it came with stainless steel sacrificial rod and hooks, everything I read says that it is toxic and you shouldn't use it. When I change to a iron sacrificial rod my amps drop in half is that normal? The unit I have said to use baking soda which is what I am using

By far the best replacement for the stainless steel is a pure carbon rod...You will notice the difference the first time you use it...You can get them from eBay...I have a small set up and use a 3/8" by 4" ...You can solder a copper wire to it, but it's a bit of a faff, so I wrapped the copper wire around one end of the rod and then clamped it in place with a stainless steel hose clamp.

Unfortunately on larger set-up's, I don't think carbon rods are practical, but for small set-up's they are great...you just need to be careful with them as they tend to be on the brittle side....

Below is my DIY set-up:

 

[Pete e]

Ok, I was under the impression that higher the amps the more cooking it was doing taking the rust off with the stainless steel I can get up to five amps 24 volts with the iron rod I get about two amps, I really dont want the nasty waste so I guess I will switch. I am currently cooking a large old hoe head

Do you have a pic of your set up? We might be able to advise better once we have seen it...

 

[Silverspade]

Do you have a pic of your set up? We might be able to advise better once we have seen it...

 

[Pete e]

That will undoubtedly work with an iron anode, but personally I would add/wire a second anode the opposite end of the container, and move the existing cathode wire and feed it through that black rubber gromit instead...That would increase the surface area of the anodes in contact with the electrolyte solution, and the current would flow evenly via both sides of the artifact...

If you do a search on the web, you will see some folks have four or six anodes in a ring around the rim of the tank, but that's usually for large containers designed to clean large or multiple artifacts...In your case, I think two would be plenty...

 

[Jim in Idaho]

Yup...in my bigger setup, I have a grid of anodes made of 1/2" rebar. Works really good on big stuff like shovels, big wrenchs, etc.
Jim

 

[Silverspade]

That will undoubtedly work with an iron anode, but personally I would add/wire a second anode the opposite end of the container, and move the existing cathode wire and feed it through that black rubber gromit instead...That would increase the surface area of the anodes in contact with the electrolyte solution, and the current would flow evenly via both sides of the artifact...

If you do a search on the web, you will see some folks have four or six anodes in a ring around the rim of the tank, but that's usually for large containers designed to clean large or multiple artifacts...In your case, I think two would be plenty...

I will try that, thanks for the input