Got this from another forum but will work fixing a wobbly shaft due to a worn out Cam Lock. I use a piece of electrical tape on the shaft of my DFX and it
helps tighten it up too.
#1. There are two different sizes of cam lock parts White's has (to accommodate two different rod diameters). Early cam-lock models (1990's)... and heavy models (5900, 6000, TDI PRO an TDI Australian, Surfmaster PI) use cam lock parts designed to fit a thicker rod diameter. Everything else uses a standard, more common/current size. If you have a older / heavy beast, 5900, 6000, TDI Pro, TDI Australian, Surfmaster PI, Early XLT... you need the cam lock parts for the thicker diameter rods. If you have a later / lighter model, you need the cam lock parts for the smaller rod diameter. Anything older than 2000, likely needs the "Thick Rod" parts. Any model near 5 pounds, likely needs the cam lock parts for the (thick rod) diameter. Any model made after 2000, and/or lighter than four pounds, likely needs the cam lock parts for the thinner rod diameter. No worries, 50/50 chance, everyone seems to get the wrong size!
#2. The quick/easy fix for a loose rod... is to thicken up the paint inside the rod (female end) and outside the inserted rod (male end). Get some hard (acrylic) high quality (not the cheapest) black fingernail polish (or car touch up black paint) and re-paint the male and female ends, let it dry, and mussel it back in. Shade tree mechanics do well with this fix. Its not a 100% cure, but it is quicker/easier and can do an OK job tightening it up if you do not remove the rods often. And one can use second/third paint layers to keep getting it tighter and tighter until satisfied.
