Need help waterproofing my compadre

NCtoad said:

2nd: To run the coil cable through the box I’ve read of people using the Heyco liquid tight cord grips. Do these work well and does anyone know what size I’ll need?

3rd: How do I add an external switch when the on/off on a compadre is done with the disc knob? I don’t mind setting the disc just above iron and hunting with it like that so no need to externally mount the disc knob. But I would like an external on/off switch. How do I remove the on/off function from the disc knob and move it to an external switch?

4th: Speaking of on/off switches, Someone in one of the threads I looked up mentioned a reed switch. I had no idea what a reed switch was so I looked it up and it’s a switch that turns on and off with a magnet. The nice thing about using a reed switch is that it can be mounted inside the case and then activated with a magnet on the exterior of the case to turn the detector on. One less penetration on the case. What I can’t figure out is how would I keep a magnet in place over the reed switch so the detector stays on? Or would I be better off just buying an IP68 rated toggle switch and drilling a hole for it?

5th: Any other help/tips would be much appreciated.

6th: Almost forgot this; is the speaker loud enough to be heard through the case or do I need to add a waterproof headphone jack. Ideally, if I did this I would like to buy a jack that’s the same as on my equinox so I can use the waterproof headphones that I bought for my nox. Is a nox compatible jack like that available to be purchased?

Click to expand...

I've never tried to do this but will toss in my two cents:

2 - Not sure what they're called but "waterproof" cord bushings are used for floats on the tank-side wiring box of septic tanks. Probably sized specific to the cable size running through them. I'd goober them up liberally with RTV sealant or similar.

3 - Inside the Compadre, the disc knob likely has 3 terminals for the disc function, and 2 or maybe 3 for the click-on-off function. Desolder the on-off wires and resolder them to your new switch. The disc function should still work fine.

4 - interesting idea but probably easier to drill yet another hole for the waterproof on-off switch...

6 - I'd consider finding a small waterproof speaker (yet another hole) as the simplest sound solution. Not sure about the availability of nox type jacks.

5 - Good luck! Not trusting any waterproof anything, I'd be goobering up every penetration with rtv on top of whatever the manufacturer claims will stay waterproof...

TorqueMaster said:

I've never tried to do this but will toss in my two cents:

2 - Not sure what they're called but "waterproof" cord bushings are used for floats on the tank-side wiring box of septic tanks. Probably sized specific to the cable size running through them. I'd goober them up liberally with RTV sealant or similar.

3 - Inside the Compadre, the disc knob likely has 3 terminals for the disc function, and 2 or maybe 3 for the click-on-off function. Desolder the on-off wires and resolder them to your new switch. The disc function should still work fine.

4 - interesting idea but probably easier to drill yet another hole for the waterproof on-off switch...

6 - I'd consider finding a small waterproof speaker (yet another hole) as the simplest sound solution. Not sure about the availability of nox type jacks.

5 - Good luck! Not trusting any waterproof anything, I'd be goobering up every penetration with rtv on top of whatever the manufacturer claims will stay waterproof...

Click to expand...

Thank you! I don’t dive so at the most it’ll only be taken about three feet deep. Hopefully some others that have done this will see this post and chime in.

1. I don't know. Since this is a not-so-popular project, you may need to buy several products yourself and try them out.

2. A quick look at the Heyco seals look good. Similar to my response to the first question, you may need to buy several and figure it out yourself. But that's part of the fun! (or maybe that's just me...).

My first thought is to not have any plugs exposed to the water (KISS for your first prototype). Instead, cut the coil wire and inert the wire directly into your watertight housing. Glue and reinforce that joint area. Then, resolder the wires back together. This won't make your coil removable, but it was never removable with the stock Compadre (I think). Also, if this is your first dive into waterproof electronics, KISS for your first prototype. I used to build model R/C subs and trying to build the sub that could "do it all" was strongly discouraged for first time sub builders. I think that same sentiment applies here. And again, part of the fun is tinkering, so you've got your work cut out for your for your "WC Mk. II" (Waterproof Compadre, Mark 2).

3. You could use a shaft seal that are used for the main drive shaft in R/C subs. I don't know what modelers currently use, but I used the Subtech BHS-1 seals. These may no longer be made, but they were based on a special cup seal that increase the pressure around the shadt the deeper in the water you went. I would also use a nitrile (and well silicone lubed) O-ring outside of that for extra security and protection of the cup seal.

4. Don't use these. They have parasitic draw (at least the ones I've come across) that will run down your battery even when it's not in use).

5. Start simple and basic. Building something that can survive underwater in a RELIABLE fashion is far easier said than done. I'm not saying you can't do this or it isn't worth it. But I could strongly recommend you just start simple, taking on 1 or 2 challenges at a time, instead of all 4, 5 or 6. Remember, NASA didn't get people to the moon with Apollo 1. It wasn't until Apollo 11 that the Space Race was won. For example worry about the waterproof headphone jack after you have all of the above discussed issues dealt with.

6. This is something you can figure out on your own. I think it would be loud enough, but you can do a simple test by placing bits of plastic over the speaker and seeing what happens.

NCtoad said:

First off, I’m a good tinkerer, but not so much on electronics. I searched this forum on waterproofing a compadre, but still need some specifics. The Plano guide series case seems to be the popular one being used for this mod. Is it the 3400 model? The interior dimensions of the 3400 are 5”x3”x1.63”. Is that big enough to fit everything inside?

Click to expand...

That's the Plano box (3400) I used. It's a tight fit, but I put a 1/4 to 1/8 headphone adapter in mine along w/ a volumn control from Radio Shack when they were still around. I was able to squeeze everything in and wouldn't want a larger box.

NCtoad said:

2nd: To run the coil cable through the box I’ve read of people using the Heyco liquid tight cord grips. Do these work well and does anyone know what size I’ll need?

Click to expand...

I used the HEYCO M3207 for the coil. I've not had a problem with any leaking.

NCtoad said:

3rd: How do I add an external switch when the on/off on a compadre is done with the disc knob? I don’t mind setting the disc just above iron and hunting with it like that so no need to externally mount the disc knob. But I would like an external on/off switch. How do I remove the on/off function from the disc knob and move it to an external switch?

Click to expand...

I put an on/off switch in mine - bought it from Mouser with a boot. AT402C 12MM WATERPROOF BOOT and M2011B2B3W01 SPST ON-NONE-OFF both from Mouser

NCtoad said:

4th: Speaking of on/off switches, Someone in one of the threads I looked up mentioned a reed switch. I had no idea what a reed switch was so I looked it up and it’s a switch that turns on and off with a magnet. The nice thing about using a reed switch is that it can be mounted inside the case and then activated with a magnet on the exterior of the case to turn the detector on. One less penetration on the case. What I can’t figure out is how would I keep a magnet in place over the reed switch so the detector stays on? Or would I be better off just buying an IP68 rated toggle switch and drilling a hole for it?

Click to expand...

No idea!

NCtoad said:

5th: Any other help/tips would be much appreciated.

Click to expand...

Test it out in a bucket or deep as you can (trash can) w/out the electronics in it if you can.

NCtoad said:

6th: Almost forgot this; is the speaker loud enough to be heard through the case or do I need to add a waterproof headphone jack. Ideally, if I did this I would like to buy a jack that’s the same as on my equinox so I can use the waterproof headphones that I bought for my nox. Is a nox compatible jack like that available to be purchased?

Click to expand...

I used a Life case? iphone case headphone plug that I had laying around - and wired that through the case w/ a HEYCO fitting...




Shoot Toad - don't know how I missed this thread. It's been awhile since I did mine - so had to look some info up. Hopefully it helps you out.

Here's my waterproof Compadre thread:

https://metaldetectingforum.com/showthread.php?t=219830

and another person's that I gleaned additional info from to accomplish mine:

http://metaldetectingforum.com/showthread.php?t=162435

I can PM you my order list from Mouser - I tried to attach a screen shot but it was too tiny... let me know.

I also later straight shafted mine w/ a 3/4 copper pipe and then coated a lot of it with spray on bed liner.

I still have it - but don't use it much, but will never get rid of it.

Hope you build one! Let us know how it goes

Thank you GS! I’m probably going to leave my two compadres (6” and 8”)the way they are and wait and see what Nokta’s new machine is like. There’s only one place right now that I know of where I could use a waterproof machine. And it’s getting close to cold weather so I can put off any water hunting until spring. Hopefully something good is coming on the horizon from N/M!

GroundSweeper said:

That's the Plano box (3400) I used. It's a tight fit, but I put a 1/4 to 1/8 headphone adapter in mine along w/ a volumn control from Radio Shack when they were still around. I was able to squeeze everything in and wouldn't want a larger box.



I used the HEYCO M3207 for the coil. I've not had a problem with any leaking.



I put an on/off switch in mine - bought it from Mouser with a boot. AT402C 12MM WATERPROOF BOOT and M2011B2B3W01 SPST ON-NONE-OFF both from Mouser



No idea!



Test it out in a bucket or deep as you can (trash can) w/out the electronics in it if you can.



I used a Life case? iphone case headphone plug that I had laying around - and wired that through the case w/ a HEYCO fitting...




Shoot Toad - don't know how I missed this thread. It's been awhile since I did mine - so had to look some info up. Hopefully it helps you out.

Here's my waterproof Compadre thread:

https://metaldetectingforum.com/showthread.php?t=219830

and another person's that I gleaned additional info from to accomplish mine:

http://metaldetectingforum.com/showthread.php?t=162435

I can PM you my order list from Mouser - I tried to attach a screen shot but it was too tiny... let me know.

I also later straight shafted mine w/ a 3/4 copper pipe and then coated a lot of it with spray on bed liner.

I still have it - but don't use it much, but will never get rid of it.

Hope you build one! Let us know how it goes

Click to expand...

I know it's something to do but really why bother. For around $50? More than your compadre is worth you could buy a used simplex. How much of that $50 will you spend to waterproof it, how convenient will it be to change batteries and will you want to use it as a backup/lender after the conversion? The simplex is designed for water, rechargeable, vibrating handle, bigger coil, more depth if needed, salt mode if needed etc.