Myers Depot Metal Detectors

Etrac

Dirtfishingman

Dirtfishingman

Full Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2013
Messages
114
Location
Lowell, Indiana
Hey Guys,

I recently sold my Safari and got into a Etrac I pick her up Sunday. Been reading online material and ordered Andys book. What is some advice you can share with me as a new user. The Safari was not a issue for me but I know this has way more settings.

I mainly hunt parks and school near me (old sites ) and old homesteads.

look for and Id Chart to help out and someone to explain ferrous and conductive to me. ( i know ferrous is iron ) also the difference in the ferrous sound mode or conductive l had that on the safari and never heard a diff.

thanks guys.





Sent from my LG-LS980 using Tapatalk
 
I would recommend starting out in Stock coin mode. If you want to dig nickels they will be anywhere from 10-14 to 14-17 but mine usually lock on 12-15 roughly depending on the soil conditions and what's around it. Other than that.. to start out dig anything with a conductive number above 35....and learn it. You will hear the low iron grunts and recognize that sound quickly. Once you get some hours on it you will start to see how it locks on to coin targets...it's a lot of fun and a great machine for a coin shooter.

LittleJohn
 
Here is the advice I give to all new E-Trac owners. It comes from 5 years of use.

Before use, you need to read the owners manual. Read it several times. After you play with the detector some, go read it again. It will make more sense now. Do the same with the A.S. book.

To begin, put it in a stock mode, such as the coin mode, or which ever one fits your needs. Now, LEAVE IT ALONE. Don't change anything until you start to really understand it. Constant changes will only confuse and prolong the learning process.

Next, start off in some place easy to dig such as tot lots, volleyball courts, etc. Dig everything that responds, but keep mental notes about TID and sounds. Use these places to practice pinpointing. The E-trac pinpoints great once you learn it, but can confuse you when you're new.

Once you have a solid feel for pinpoint and response, move out into "real" hunting spots. but pick places that aren't extremely trashy. This is the hard part, you have to train your ear and mind. Open up the disc pattern to an Andy Sabich pattern or even more open. Yes, you will dig more iron trash this way, but you will also dig more deep, old, good targets.

The E-Trac is great at ID'ing the Conductive aspect of targets. As targets get deeper, the FE aspect loses reliability. Deep targets will see the cursor "bounce" up and down much more than shallow ones. In time you will learn to recognize the sound of iron falses and how they differ from good targets.

Expect to put at least 100 hours of use on it before you really start to understand it.

Lastly, when you feel ready to start making changes to the settings (other than the pattern) make one change at a time. Go detect and see how that change affects things. Then change something else if you need. Keep making changes this way, because each thing affects responses and some changes interact with other settings. Making lots of changes at once won't let you learn what you are really doing.
 
Jason in Enid said:
Here is the advice I give to all new E-Trac owners. It comes from 5 years of use.



Before use, you need to read the owners manual. Read it several times. After you play with the detector some, go read it again. It will make more sense now. Do the same with the A.S. book.



To begin, put it in a stock mode, such as the coin mode, or which ever one fits your needs. Now, LEAVE IT ALONE. Don't change anything until you start to really understand it. Constant changes will only confuse and prolong the learning process.



Next, start off in some place easy to dig such as tot lots, volleyball courts, etc. Dig everything that responds, but keep mental notes about TID and sounds. Use these places to practice pinpointing. The E-trac pinpoints great once you learn it, but can confuse you when you're new.



Once you have a solid feel for pinpoint and response, move out into "real" hunting spots. but pick places that aren't extremely trashy. This is the hard part, you have to train your ear and mind. Open up the disc pattern to an Andy Sabich pattern or even more open. Yes, you will dig more iron trash this way, but you will also dig more deep, old, good targets.



The E-Trac is great at ID'ing the Conductive aspect of targets. As targets get deeper, the FE aspect loses reliability. Deep targets will see the cursor "bounce" up and down much more than shallow ones. In time you will learn to recognize the sound of iron falses and how they differ from good targets.



Expect to put at least 100 hours of use on it before you really start to understand it.



Lastly, when you feel ready to start making changes to the settings (other than the pattern) make one change at a time. Go detect and see how that change affects things. Then change something else if you need. Keep making changes this way, because each thing affects responses and some changes interact with other settings. Making lots of changes at once won't let you learn what you are really doing.
Click to expand...


Great advice! I loved my etrac! It is a great machine!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I have a lot of etrac info on my site which may help you out including videos to understand settings etc....link is in my signature
 
I started out with FE 27-35 blocked out and everything else open as advised by my dealer and ran that till I tried TTF ... love me some TTF ... I think running that way sped up my learning curve
 
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