Using the Nox accept/reject option

BC Buck

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St Louis MO
I need to start learning this MD. Been using factory settings but some soil or heavy trash ground will drive me nuts with constant audible tones. Started experimenting with accept/ reject option and not hearing trash tones made more enjoyable, productive outing. I want to set up for field and park MD.If I reject tones up to 11 and 14 through 20 do you think I will miss any good finds? This hobby has been a tough learning curve.
 
I need to start learning this MD. Been using factory settings but some soil or heavy trash ground will drive me nuts with constant audible tones. Started experimenting with accept/ reject option and not hearing trash tones made more enjoyable, productive outing. I want to set up for field and park MD.If I reject tones up to 11 and 14 through 20 do you think I will miss any good finds? This hobby has been a tough learning curve.

First of all, you will eliminate the hope of ever finding any gold, as it shows up in the exact region you would like to reject. You will also miss a lot of cool brass finds.

Actually, you are going to miss pretty much more than half of the spectrum of good finds rejecting those numbers. Trash can be annoying, but you have to dig the bad to be able to get the good too
 
First of all, you will eliminate the hope of ever finding any gold, as it shows up in the exact region you would like to reject. You will also miss a lot of cool brass finds.

Actually, you are going to miss pretty much more than half of the spectrum of good finds rejecting those numbers. Trash can be annoying, but you have to dig the bad to be able to get the good too
Missing the occasional gold ring opportunity is what scared me. But as trashy and noisy as some soils are im probably also missing them. I need to learn this MD. Read manual many times but being new it is overwhelming.
 
I am going to experiment with this setup. Thanks

You can't do what the video shows with the 600. That's why I asked.

I wouldn't miss the 800's gold hunt modes, but the custom tone and volume settings were (for me) worth the price upgrade for the 800. The wireless headphones and the ability to more finely tune the iron bias and recovery speed were just a bonus. I'm sure most people don't realize all the differences until after they buy one, but I obviously think the custom audio is a pretty big one. It sure is nice for those who like to fiddle with settings and tune the audio to their ear and hunting goals. It's not mandatory to find a lot of goodies. Lots of people killing it with the 600.

You can notch out unwanted signals and even lower the sensitivity and perhaps even the recovery speed. You'll hit the obvious coin signals and quiet things down a lot. You'll luck out and hit some silver jewelry and perhaps even gold. You can use the "all-metal" button to further investigate sketchy signals that might be worth digging. You'll have tons of fun. You'll leave lots behind, too.

To be clear, on the 600 you CAN adjust where the break occurs between tone 1 and 2 (up to a point). You can also adjust the pitch and volume of range 1. So, instead of notching everything out entirely under nickels (basically all of tone ranges 1 and 2, you could experiment with those settings to suit your ear so you can still get a bit more info than just notching everything out up to nickels.

For example, it might be useful to increase the high end of tone range 1 up the scale to the point of what you know for sure you're not going to dig. Let's say 5 and under is "no-dig" territory. (I'm assuming the 600 will let you push the high end of tone range 1 all the way up to 9, which is just below the fixed high end of tone range 2.) That leaves Tone Bin 1 as 6-10...lots of foil, but far more chance at small gold chains, earrings, thin rings, etc... Then, instead of notching out iron completely, notch out just the lowest range (maybe -9 through maybe -2) and lower the volume of tone range 1 (now -9 through 5) . The result is a dull, tolerable, background information of junk signals at -1 though 5. Plus, the possible dig signals at 6 through 10 in range 2 are going to stand out with their own distinct tone, but be more tolerable than if that tone also included 1 through 5.

But, you might ask, why not just notch out everything up through 5? Go right ahead if you want to focus on the obvious coin signals and cover more ground.

By definition, those low numbers are no longer noise when they become information.

If you're trying to pick out the difficult coins, then that background audio of tone range 1---the low conductors/junk/iron---is full of the critical information you need to do it: how fast you can get away with swinging, recovery speed, depth of the trash layer, false high tones from iron, separation between trash and high conductors, etc... That's why a lot of experienced individuals often run "wide open". They're constantly processing and adjusting to ground conditions, including trash density.

Then, as mentioned above, all of this interacts with sensitivity and recovery speed. A lower sensitivity and lower recovery speed are going to focus on the more prominent non-discriminated targets.

Not a big deal if your priority is to find silver coins and you have 2 hours until sundown to detect an acre around a house built in 1900. You have open permission to come back and they don't mind you making 300 plugs in their yard? Open things up a bit. Dig more signals or cover more ground?

You pick your battles. Everything in this hobby is a trade-off. "Dig everything" standing in a patch of pull tabs, foil and shards of aluminum around a picnic table? Not for me! Dig every repeatable non-iron signal on either side of the walkway leading to the front steps of an 1800's house? Yes, please!
 
This is a fun little setup for coin hunting. Pretty much what you are looking to do... Plus, it makes nickles pop.


That's a great video to understand how to get started creating a custom audio profile on the Nox 800 for coin shooting or some other targeted hunting. It's all in the manual, but watching that video can teach somebody the basic idea in just a few minutes.

You can obviously do a lot with it. I have a nickel program that peaks the tone and volume at 12/13 and descends on either side. That's fun.

For a standard program similar to the video, however, I'd suggest including 11 with the 12/13 nickel zone. If you're hunting by audio only you'll miss older nickels that sometimes favor 11, while still being able to ignore the solid 11s that aren't jumping at all to 12/13.

Something else to consider for a basic coin program is that I think he's wasting a full tone bin if he's going to notch out tone bin 1 AND make tone bin 2 a "non-dig" range anyway.

Instead, make tone bin 1 go all the way from -9 to 10, give it a low-medium tone and volume just under tone bin 2 AND THEN notch out everything up to 1 or even as high as 6 or even 8. That'll give you some necessary background junk information, including what you need to hear just below nickels to assess them by audio only, and you can STILL use the iron audio button to investigate what's going on in the bottom half of tone range 1. It'll just have the same tone and volume as the top half of tone bin 1.

Why do this? It gives you 4 tone ranges instead of 3 for nickels on up. Tone bin 2 is nickels (11,12,13), tone bin 3 is just above nickels, and you now have ranges 4 and 5 for everything from about 18 on up.

If you want three ranges for 18 on up, you can make tone bin 2 include 11-17 and notch out 14-17. You'll still hit the obvious nickels, dig a few more pull tabs, but get ranges 3, 4, 5 to use for tones 18-40 and up. You could have an 18-19, a 20-23, and a 24 and up.

It's a neat machine! Now I just wish there was a way to make DEEPER signals louder and shallow signals quieter!
 
I have a Nox 600 and Nox 800. What Toy Soldier outlined is a good strategy. Another way of doing what you asked about is to reject -9 to +11 and reject +14 to +20 like you said in say, Park 1 and then use Park 2, Field 1 or Field 2 with default settings to go over the same area after you have recovered the obvious easy targets in the US coin range.

I have to do this in some of the urban parks I hunt in since there is a bed of perpetually accumulating aluminum trash with 2 to 4 targets sounding every second of a sweep. Just picking out a good target at all takes some time and patience, so notching is a must and so is going over the same ground from different directions and multiple times. There is nothing wrong with eliminating some of the noise by rejecting some targets and recovering the easy stuff first. Removing those easy targets can unmask other targets beneath them.
As long as you are willing to dig some trash on some of your hunts over the same ground later with no non-ferrous targets rejected you won't miss much and you might enjoy your Nox 600 more.

Just realize that I have dug men's gold class rings that came in at 18, 19 and 20. I also dug men's and women's gold wedding bands and women's engagement rings that came in anywhere from 8 to 20 depending on their density and gold composition. Most pendants, earrings, broaches, and chains are going to hit in the 4 to 12 range too. So, when I'm gold hunting in these trashy parks I know that I will have to dig 20 to 50 trash targets in the gold range (+4 to +20) in order to get one or two pieces of gold jewelry IF I'm lucky........

Another thing you can try when you have a lot of targets rejected is to turn up the Threshold Tone volume a little bit. It will sound like a quiet constant tone in the background until you pass the coil over a rejected target. It will go silent over that target and can let you know if there is iron next to a target with an accepted number (could be iron falsing high). Using the horseshoe button like Toy Soldier suggested will let you know if there is iron nearby for sure.

If you are really new to the Nox 600, I would practice as much as possible on your coil control by putting a coin in between some similar sized aluminum trash at the same level or at different levels in a low EMI practice area (not in your house if possible). You can let them overlap or separate them some and see if you can shorten your swing enough to pick out the coin clearly. You can do the same with gold and silver jewelry. You can also do the same with multiple coins or with iron.

You might also want to hunt a few easy places like bark or gravel playgrounds and open fields where targets are more sparse in one of the default modes until you get the hang of it.

Jeff
 
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Wow, I fell like im taking a college coarse. I had to reread each post several times trying to take it all in. Will need to experiment with known targets. Thanks
 
Wow, I fell like im taking a college coarse. I had to reread each post several times trying to take it all in. Will need to experiment with known targets. Thanks

Yeah, I got a bit carried away. The Equinox is a great machine even with the defaults. Adjust the sensitivity and maybe notch out a few numbers, go detect, and find plenty. Then, go deeper as you understand the relationships between the different settings and when to use them. The 800 is especially versatile, especially the custom audio, but the 600 has some good audio options too.

You can turn it into a completely different machine, and using the wrong settings at the wrong time and miss good targets.
 
What numbers does most of the gold show up on?

I post this pic every time anyone asks this question.
A picture is worth a thousand words, sometimes, but those are not Nox numbers.


Very tiny pieces like earring studs and thin chains can easily be in iron at 0 or even below.
Other slightly larger pieces above 0 through all the numbers up into foil.
I have dug a lot of women's rings that are usually smaller and can come in all the numbers of foil.
Larger rings, men's usually, can enter the nickel range and all the numbers surrounding that range.
Even bigger pieces get up into tabs and all those numbers.
Because the larger nickel and tab area pieces tend to be nice, solid signals more of those are found by hunters so I am sure you will read advice from hunters to find gold you have to concentrate on those two areas because that is where gold is found, sure, a lot of them do but not all of them by any means so this is not correct and those that do will miss gold at foil if that is all they do.

Now bigger gold, like 9, 10 grams and bigger men's gold school rings...I hate to say it but those tend to behave like they are a zinc cent and can show up at all zinc numbers, above and below.
If you are lucky enough to pass your coil over a large, pure gold coin like a $20 piece you might think it is a high to be coin like a quarter, half of silver dollar.

Are you getting it?
Gold can come in just about anywhere depending on the size, shape and purity and I mean anywhere.
Add to that you have other things that affect our "gold" signals.
If you scan a ring that is crushed or even just broken that screws up the signal we would usually get if the piece was in perfect condition and usually lowers the signal into other areas.
Chains, those are weird no matter what and detectors aren't really designed to find them or even notice them...be they gold, silver or whatever else.
They can be found but things have to line up for you to do it and some skills and behavior knowledge searching g for them really helps.

Oh yea, dirt and ground conditions also affect our signals.
Mineralization, trash or iron in the vicinity of gold can screw up everything, too, masking can be a huge issue when looking for gold in high trash areas and high trash areas is where I usually look for them because high trash means more people and more lost jewelry.

Since you are new this is what I suggest...
Forget going after iron area gold, those are rare and you will kill yourself digging up junk.
Foil gold can be tricky, not always solid but if you learn to hunt with less discrimination but train yourself to notice the more solid signals if and when they pop up you might get lucky.
Same with nickel, tabs and zinc...everyone advises newbies to dig everything at first which is the best and fastest way to learn detectors and this hobby but you asked about gold specifically so you need to learn how that metal behaves and how your detector reacts to it.
Like anything else that just takes practice.

All the gold I have dug came in solid, not all of it does but mine did so I dig all solid signals always...no matter where they are.
Hunt with less disc, confusing at first but you will have a better shot at more gold if you can do it and much more than just gold if you can master it.
Dig the solid signals if nothing else, always dig the solid signals.
Learn more about your detector, gold hunting is either luck or a specialty skill that you learn AFTER you understand your detector.
Good luck.
 

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All the gold I have dug came in solid, not all of it does but mine did so I dig all solid signals always...no matter where they are.

Good luck.

I have a good idea of what you mean but would you tell me exactly what your looking for in solid signal. My bet is #s that do not bounce out of range you are looking for.
 
Tones

I need to start learning this MD. Been using factory settings but some soil or heavy trash ground will drive me nuts with constant audible tones. Started experimenting with accept/ reject option and not hearing trash tones made more enjoyable, productive outing. I want to set up for field and park MD.If I reject tones up to 11 and 14 through 20 do you think I will miss any good finds? This hobby has been a tough learning curve.

Some really good posts here on how to manipulate the myriad of options available today on current models with never ending adjustment choices. Some good, some not so good, some work, some don't.

But interestingly enough, tone still rules the day and continues to be the baseline and prime indicator for when to dig a hole in the ground. This hasn't changed since the first detector was invented.

Not to say that VDI,TID, and wireless everything is not fun and interesting to fiddle with but we should remember and give creedence to T-O-N-E. The clips, crackles, pops, snaps, and sweet round full sounds all mean something and are so important.

Listen to it, learn it, and believe what every detector manual has to say about tone no matter the make, age, or model

All have tone (for a reason) but not all have visual yet somehow get along quite well without it.
 
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