Metal Detecting Cherry Pop | My First Time

Kory Man X · Jul 24, 2020

I am a new member here on the fourm as you can see.

I have been scrolling through and searching through this form, gaining knowledge so thank you to everybody who has answered my questions and organized this form for necessary information.

Thank you to Myers Metal Detectors in Florida for their great customer service.

I have never metal detected in my life but always wanted to and my new move to Puerto Rico, it was a must. I ordered the Equinox 800 and I’m glad I did. I can tell this machine knows how to find things and as soon as I get better at using it I’m going to be finding treasures galore.
Here is my first day finds.

Found some wiring which I believe to be copper so that’s worth some money.
Two odd finds, one that I believe is a fish sinker and the other one I have no idea what it is but I’m going to clean it up and find out.
And about $1.40 in clad all copper and Nickle, few zinc. No silver
And of course lots of tabs and tops.

For all of you veterans out there using the 800 what settings are you using on the beach to avoid bottle caps and tabs?

Thank you to everyone!

Tom_in_CA · Jul 24, 2020

Welcome from California. And I am extremely jealous of the 3rd pulltab on the upper right. THAT'S A JOKE, haha :wow:

So as to your question about how to avoid such junk tab objects: Simply increase your disc. knob/control function to knock out such lower conductors.

HOWEVER, you will now miss certain (many) gold rings. That's the ugly secret of md'ing, is that aluminum and alloyed gold share the same TID/disc ranges :wow:

So your best bet to avoid such things , is NOT to think you can play around with disc range programs. Instead your better odds at upping your gold ring ratio (if that is your objective ) is a function of "where where where, and when when when".

Ie.: Get to your beaches inter-tidal zones (ie.: the "wet sand") when it is eroding outwards on cycles. Such that all-such light weight annoyances like tabs and foil and cap are simply not there, in the first place. They are taken out by nature (mother nature's natural riffle-board) and you are left with nothing other/else than the heavier items like coins, sinkers, nails, etc.....

Kory Man X · Jul 24, 2020

Tom_in_CA said:
Welcome from California. And I am extremely jealous of the 3rd pulltab on the upper right. THAT'S A JOKE, haha

So as to your question about how to avoid such junk tab objects: Simply increase your disc. knob/control function to knock out such lower conductors.

HOWEVER, you will now miss certain (many) gold rings. That's the ugly secret of md'ing, is that aluminum and alloyed gold share the same TID/disc ranges

So your best bet to avoid such things , is NOT to think you can play around with disc range programs. Instead your better odds at upping your gold ring ratio (if that is your objective ) is a function of "where where where, and when when when".

Ie.: Get to your beaches inter-tidal zones (ie.: the "wet sand") when it is eroding outwards on cycles. Such that all-such light weight annoyances like tabs and foil and cap are simply not there, in the first place. They are taken out by nature (mother nature's natural riffle-board) and you are left with nothing other/else than the heavier items like coins, sinkers, nails, etc.....

Thank you for this great information.

jruckman38 · Jul 24, 2020

Yes what Tom said is true if it were me wanting to dig gold rings and such since there are different sizes and shapes some with less gold some with more gold I would just set the sensitivity up to 25 and dig everything aleast it’s sand and not dirt lol. Good luck hope this helps.

KOB · Jul 24, 2020

^×2....If you want to find gold , you have to dig tabs. No way around it. Even pennies for that matter...GL

Tom_in_CA · Jul 24, 2020

KOB said:
^×2....If you want to find gold , you have to dig tabs. No way around it. Even pennies for that matter...GL

To add to what the Kob says :

Yes it's a given that alloyed gold and aluminum share the same TID ranges. But that's not to say that the "trick to finding gold rings is to lower your disc. and dig tabs till your arms fall off".

The much bigger "trick" is : Timing and location. Find out when the beach is eroding @ the inter-tidal zone, and .... let mother nature do all the work of removing the pesky light-weight stuff for you

Kory Man X · Jul 24, 2020

Awesome information. Will do.

What does silver coins normally ring up as?

Stiffwrists · Jul 24, 2020

Kory Man X said:
Awesome information. Will do.

What does silver coins normally ring up as?

I would say, with few exceptions, silver coins and most silver rings will ring up in the 25+ range.

Silver chains, on the other hand...

I found my first larger silver chain in the water this week. It wasn't a typical silver signal.

Skippy SH13 · Jul 24, 2020

Kory Man X said:
Thank you for this great information.

Like Tom said, it's a function of where and when things get dropped. Focus on where people drop items, and you'll do much better than simply focusing on trash.

We all dig trash, there's no way around it... But the more you get to understand the "language" of your machine, the more of it you can skip, because you'll KNOW it's trash. Unfortunately, the only way to learn this is to dig enough good targets and trash to learn the difference! It's probably the largest barrier to entry. Give yourself 100 hours to learn your machine, and 500 to become proficient. 1000 to master that sucker. Sure the numbers will be different for every person out there, but the key is to keep learning. If you think you've learned everything you need to at 100 hours, you'll never be any better than a 100-hour student. There's some real experts on this forum. Listen to them, and plan on putting some time in.

Cheers,

Skippy

Kory Man X · Jul 24, 2020

Skippy SH13 said:
Like Tom said, it's a function of where and when things get dropped. Focus on where people drop items, and you'll do much better than simply focusing on trash.

We all dig trash, there's no way around it... But the more you get to understand the "language" of your machine, the more of it you can skip, because you'll KNOW it's trash. Unfortunately, the only way to learn this is to dig enough good targets and trash to learn the difference! It's probably the largest barrier to entry. Give yourself 100 hours to learn your machine, and 500 to become proficient. 1000 to master that sucker. Sure the numbers will be different for every person out there, but the key is to keep learning. If you think you've learned everything you need to at 100 hours, you'll never be any better than a 100-hour student. There's some real experts on this forum. Listen to them, and plan on putting some time in.

Cheers,

Skippy

Great information. Thank you. I was told to wait on low tide but also heard high tide was best. Researching that now

Metal Detecting Cherry Pop | My First Time

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