Etrac Disc Pattern

AJinNJ · Feb 13, 2014

I've heard the stock Etrac coin Pattern uses way to much disc. Not sure where they came up with it, although it does seem to work very well...however I've always felt I'm prob missing things using the stock pattern only.

What do you guys use? I know a lot use the andy s pattern, however I've heard you will miss gold with it. I also think his pattern has not enough iron disc'ed out.....

I know many like TTF but to me it gets tiring, you have to slow wayyy down and it never clicked with me.

Thanks!

Longhair · Feb 13, 2014

The only way to be sure that you're not missing gold, is to run zero disc. The machine will find it if you let it.

Surfchunker · Feb 13, 2014

the stock program will miss silver dollars with the top right Blacked out ... just got mine but run it with 25 and up blocked on the FE scale

Big Boys Hobbies · Feb 14, 2014

Longhair said:
The only way to be sure that you're not missing gold, is to run zero disc. The machine will find it if you let it.

Agreed!

Big Boys Hobbies · Feb 14, 2014

Surfchunker said:
the stock program will miss silver dollars with the top right Blacked out ... just got mine but run it with 25 and up blocked on the FE scale

You will only miss out on a FEW silver dollars in the top right, not all.

Having that there reduces iron bleed over and for a newbie it will confuse them on iron falsing targets. I recommend you leave that there until you master what an iron false sounds like.

Jason in Enid · Feb 14, 2014

AJinNJ said:
I've heard the stock Etrac coin Pattern uses way to much disc. Not sure where they came up with it, although it does seem to work very well...however I've always felt I'm prob missing things using the stock pattern only.

What do you guys use? I know a lot use the andy s pattern, however I've heard you will miss gold with it. I also think his pattern has not enough iron disc'ed out.....

I know many like TTF but to me it gets tiring, you have to slow wayyy down and it never clicked with me.

Thanks!

You are confusing some peoples statements about this. You do not miss gold because of the Andy S pattern, the E-Trac is not great at find tiny, broken pieces of gold or tiny chains. It's just the nature of the beast and it doesn't matter if have zero disc. The E-Trac has ZERO problems finding gold rings, the round shape makes them highly detectable.

Now.... If you are using the stock coin pattern, :wow:

you are missing a LOT. That is fine for starting out in tot-lots to learn the tones on easy to dig, shallow targets. If you want old stuff, OPEN IT UP! Andy S. is too restrictive if I remember his pattern correctly. Block out the bottom 10 or so lines (from 25 or 27 and higher) AND THAT'S IT.

You have to engage your brain as your primary discrimination tool. Stop thinking in terms of those perfect air-test numbers, deeper targets have higher FE numbers, but the CO will stay the in the same range.

docbars · Feb 14, 2014

The E does a great job at discriminating but it is like all other machines,if you disc to much you will start missing those borderline targets. I hunt with my screen opened up like Jason said. Those deeper hits or the targets in iron will give you some crazy numbers but the machines audio will let you now to dig or not to dig. Once you get your ears trained it get easier.
HH

sgtwilks · Feb 14, 2014

Well I agree with everything posted above. BUT I am afraid to hunt in any mode but all metal. I will discriminate I don't need my detector to do it for me. I can hear silver near iron myself. I'm wrong sometimes but I find what others miss this way. Depends on the mood I'm in I may set iron mask on my se to 28 and listen for squeaks combined with nulls.I don't know if I'm explaining this right but I know how to do this. This is not for everyone turns a hobby into a mission,lol.

AJinNJ · Feb 14, 2014

docbars said:
The E does a great job at discriminating but it is like all other machines,if you disc to much you will start missing those borderline targets. I hunt with my screen opened up like Jason said. Those deeper hits or the targets in iron will give you some crazy numbers but the machines audio will let you now to dig or not to dig. Once you get your ears trained it get easier.
HH

I've tried opening it up more...but often get things like 27-45 and get a high tone, so I find myself looking down at the screen a lot and not hunting by sound...

Surfchunker · Feb 14, 2014

just takes time and learn how to use the quick mask

sgtwilks · Feb 14, 2014

Big Boys Hobbies said:
You will only miss out on a FEW silver dollars in the top right, not all.

Having that there reduces iron bleed over and for a newbie it will confuse them on iron falsing targets. I recommend you leave that there until you master what an iron false sounds like.

chances are you wont come across a few silver dollars but when I put my coil over it I want it.

AJinNJ · Feb 14, 2014

Thanks guys, will try to open her up 25 and up and that's it as Jason noted.

TN_INDIAN · Feb 14, 2014

AJinNJ said:
I've tried opening it up more...but often get things like 27-45 and get a high tone, so I find myself looking down at the screen a lot and not hunting by sound...

That's the same problem im having still on my f75se. Gotta get them eyes off the screen. Screen watching is not the way. Found a few silvers this way but prolly missing a lot to. its all in the tones. if 1 set of tones don't get along with try another set of tones and then stick with it from what I was told. Only to look to check out the numbers and investigate after u think u hear something good.By no means im a pro at doing this but am in the process of training myself to do this. U can do it!

Jason in Enid · Feb 14, 2014

AJinNJ said:
I've tried opening it up more...but often get things like 27-45 and get a high tone, so I find myself looking down at the screen a lot and not hunting by sound...

There's nothing wrong with that, that's what the display screen is for. Listen first, look second. Learn to use ALL the information the detector is giving. How does it sound? What targets are close to it? How strong is the signal? How big is the signal? What depth does it show at? Does the tone stay in one spot or is it walking around several inches? Does it pinpoint where you get the tone? What is the display doing? Is the target staying high and solid? Is it bouncing up and down? Is it shifting all over? Is it staying at the very bottom?

Put it into a full open quick-mask screen and check the target, what is it doing now?

Those are what you should be considering on every single target.

Modes also have a LOT to do with target responses. One gives you you the response of the main target below the coil, another gives you the response and main ACCEPTED target under the coil.

AJinNJ · Feb 14, 2014

Jason in Enid said:
There's nothing wrong with that, that's what the display screen is for. Listen first, look second. Learn to use ALL the information the detector is giving. How does it sound? What targets are close to it? How strong is the signal? How big is the signal? What depth does it show at? Does the tone stay in one spot or is it walking around several inches? Does it pinpoint where you get the tone? What is the display doing? Is the target staying high and solid? Is it bouncing up and down? Is it shifting all over? Is it staying at the very bottom?

Put it into a full open quick-mask screen and check the target, what is it doing now?

Those are what you should be considering on every single target.

Modes also have a LOT to do with target responses. One gives you you the response of the main target below the coil, another gives you the response and main ACCEPTED target under the coil.

Excellent info. Thanks! I usually try to do a lot of that stuff already, but it helps to remember it's not all about the numbers and the sound.

Appreciate all the help guys. It's a machine that you always keep learning....

Robo99 · Feb 14, 2014

Jason in Enid said:
There's nothing wrong with that, that's what the display screen is for. Listen first, look second. Learn to use ALL the information the detector is giving. How does it sound? What targets are close to it? How strong is the signal? How big is the signal? What depth does it show at? Does the tone stay in one spot or is it walking around several inches? Does it pinpoint where you get the tone? What is the display doing? Is the target staying high and solid? Is it bouncing up and down? Is it shifting all over? Is it staying at the very bottom?

Put it into a full open quick-mask screen and check the target, what is it doing now?

Those are what you should be considering on every single target.

Modes also have a LOT to do with target responses. One gives you you the response of the main target below the coil, another gives you the response and main ACCEPTED target under the coil.

Good info, ran mine from 25 or so down, or up whichever. My screen was blacked out only across the bottom on a horizontal line from 25ish, been a bit, i forget the exacts. Keep an open quick mask screen and go hunting. If you get those iffys that are very sporadic, hit quick mask, if it become very repeatable and high, reading 30s-44to50 then chalk it up to iron. Deep coins will drop in FE number. I dug MANY silver reading 15-18 with a Conductive being close to correct.

johnmusk · Feb 15, 2014

I just took a lot of my finds that I got with my Sovereign and ran them across the etrac coil, then set my discrimination levels so that it would see all the finds, while getting rid of the crushed foil wrappers. I hate gum wrappers they drive me crazy. You will miss the really low conductivity rings this way but I don't care I am looking for coins mostly.

Etrac Disc Pattern

AJinNJ

Longhair

Elite Member

Surfchunker

Elite Member

Big Boys Hobbies

Big Boys Hobbies

Jason in Enid

Elite Member

docbars

Elite Member

sgtwilks

AJinNJ

Surfchunker

Elite Member

sgtwilks

AJinNJ

TN_INDIAN

Jason in Enid

Elite Member

AJinNJ

Robo99

johnmusk

Full Member

Attachments

Similar threads